Tuesday, January 25th, 2022

 

Swimming With The Surf Gods, and they have a sense of humor.

When I drove down the hill into Avila I was looking for the big surf that was predicted for today and tomorrow but saw nothing, just the typical 3 footers and a beautiful morning for a swim. I was thinking this over as I walked out onto the pier to get the water temperature when a set of 6 to 7 footers rolled in, smacking the pilings hard and shooting water up through the gaps in the planks under my feet. The swells looked long and powerful.  So I started thinking about where would be the best place to get in.

The early morning air temperature was 38° and the water was 54° and sunny, with no wind. Duke was at work so I was on my own. I decided to get in on the right side of the pier. The swells are often smaller and less consolidated on the right side so I walked in there. I didn't see big swells out along the pier so I kept walking and was able to get out by just floating over a couple of waves. This was easy! It felt all of 54° except for neat the Avila Pier were it was a degree warmer.

I swam a little short and easy. I was thinking about a lot of other stuff as I was swimming in and was not paying attention to where I was. The first large wave in a set picked me up. I backpedaled trying to push myself back through the lip but it pulled my feet up over my head and I went over the falls feet first. I was bounced off of the bottom a couple of times and had to wait to get up to the surface only to find myself looking right at the next one starting to curl over. I caught a quick breath but my dive was too shallow so I got another ride in the spin cycle. After that I had been pushed in far enough to be in the smaller white water where I  caught my breath and finished swimming in.  I wish someone had caught me on video because it would have been a laugh to see.

  

For my lack of respect the surf gods taxed me my goggles, both of my caps and a wetsuit full of sand. I will be more attentive and humble in the future.

I did not see Tom's car when I left but he says that he did swim.

And Duke says he got away from work and was able to get in after lunch.

Neither of them claimed to have done anything as spectacular as I.

I will be back on Thursday at 8. 

niel