Tom Swims The Big Water -
Wild surf at Avila this morning! The air temperature was 59°. The water was about 53. The set waves were almost breaking on the first buoy on the east side! The crest of the waves were just about hitting the top of the pier. The biggest waves were 3X the height of the buoy. Getting in and out was nuts. The power and speed of the waves were moving me around 10 feet in either direction and sometimes up or down. Wild!