Tuesday, March 11th, 2025

Avila Beach was stronger than I was this morning. 

I arrived looking for a swim that would let me vent a lot of work and technology stress from yesterday. i.e.; not too hard of an entry. I found storm surf and conditions that would require a start with a strong and sustained push out through the waves.  I waded in on the east and then the west sides of the pier. I didn't channel my tension into energy and then use that to push me through the surf.  So no swim.

The conditions this morning were not extortionary; 3 foot waves with the largest ones between 4 and 5 feet. The wind was onshore and the tide was coming in so the waves were well consolidated with a 10 to 15 second period so once you started there would be no resting until you got outside. The water felt like the low 50's. The strangest thing was that every so often a wave would come in going left to right, at an angle across the rest of the waves.  I wonder if the surf was piling water up against the steep beach and Fossil Point until it broke out and made a wave that ran down the beach towards the pier....?

Thursday's swim is probably rained out so my next swim will depend on how much we get from tomorrow's storm.

niel