Amusing the Water Gods -
On Tuesday I had some complaints about he pesky small chop, so today the water gods served me up some of the real stuff to reinforce how easy Hillary and I had it on Tuesday. It was full stormy conditions today. The surf was 4 to 5 foot with smaller waves packed in between the largest swells, with chop on top. It doesn't look too bad in the photo but it was tough to figure out how to swim in this mix.
The water temperature was 67°, the air temp. was 62° and the tide was coming in.
Inside the buoy line the waves were all stacked up on each other. They weren't large but it seemed like they were just seconds apart. I turned right at the #1 buoy and did a triangle. That felt like enough.
Saturday's swim is rain dependent. If we get close to an inch on Friday the water will be buggy and I'll sit out.
For Saturday Surfline is predicting 16' - 18' waves on the west facing beaches and 6' - 8' for Avila.
niel































